Sharing the Harvest: A Conversation with Justin Garrido
Social Products PH and heirloom Filipino rice varieties
Even now, the scent of rice makes me feel at home. In our Filipino-American household, rice was the staple. While living in Hawai'i and California, we ate Calrose, a variety I later learned was developed in California at UC Davis (hence the "Cal"). Sometimes, we ate long grained jasmine rice, and in later years, as my parents grew more health conscious, they began to (begrudgingly) include brown rice.
I grew up taking rice for granted. We knew little of its source or its names beyond the branded package it came in. Yet rice is much more than white or brown, long or short grain. It is much older than the young, university-developed variety Calrose. Like corn is to Mesoamericans, rice is a profound cultural, economic and spiritual symbol, developed over generations by traditional farmers. Worldwide, over 40,000 varieties of rice exist - each with unique names, cultivation, colors, and flavors. Yet for many of us, the astounding diversity of these ancient crops has been whittled down to just a few in the market. Facing economic and environmental pressures, many of these heirloom seeds are on the verge of extinction.
This is why I was excited to connect with Justin Garrido and learn more about his project to support organic, traditional farmers in the Philippines. As the growing Filipino American food movement often shines a light on the "chef" aspect of Filipino food, it was refreshing to see an honest focus on food where it begins - with the livelihood of farmers, in seeds and soil. Read more about Social Products PH and rice here:
What are some of your fave Filipino foods (perhaps eaten or made w/ rice)?
JG: I enjoy Pinakbet with the bagoong, pork, mainly because of the mix of different gulay (vegetables). Chicken tinola is another favorite, a Filipino comfort food for the soul with malunggay leaves. I've especially enjoyed that dish and the different versions from the farming communities I've visited from the Batad rice terraces to Bukidnon. And both are great with a bowl of steaming white jasmine rice.
You shared the story that your lola was a rice trader. Did you grow up feeling connected to food, agriculture and rice through her?
JG: I actually never knew my Lola was a rice trader until just last year, when we shared with her what we are doing to partner with and empower Filipino rice farmers. As a son of a US Navy dad and as a Filipino American, I grew up in different suburbs in the US without much exposure to agriculture and where our food comes from. It really wasn't until just a few years ago, when I moved to the Philippines to pursue social entrepreneurship when I fell in love with the rural countryside and saw the potential with sustainable agriculture to protect the land and change farmer's lives for the better. I consider sustainable agriculture as farming that protects the environment, allows farmers to prosper and support their communities, as well as protects the welfare of animals.
Biodynamic is still unfamiliar among some US consumers and growers. How did you decide on sourcing from biodynamic growers?
JG: When I was looking to find the best of the Philippines to launch our market access initiative to empower marginalized Filipinos, I explored different natural foods such as coconut and coffee, as well as our indigenous weaving heritage. Based on insights gained from visiting organic grocers in the US, I found that organic colored rice might have good potential. Through mutual friends I came across our co-op partners in Cotabato, who happened to practice biodynamic farming. Our partners explained the farming method was a more spiritual way of farming that factored the farmer's transformation and the animal's well-being, as well as giving back to Mother Nature by feeding the soil and land.
Are the Filipino farmers you partner with also able to move their products into local/domestic markets, in addition to US markets?
JG: Our Filipino co-op partner sells their organic colored rice in the local communities as well as in major cities like Manila, Davao, and Cebu through the help of other social good partner distributors. But they are most hopeful for international markets where they can get higher income for their products.
What are some of the reactions from Fil/Am (and non Fil/Ams) to Social Products and of course, the rice?
JG: We've been blessed to have gotten a lot of love and support from our target market of 'conscious foodies,' that not only factor in the taste and health benefits of a food product, but also where a product comes from and how the farmers and environment are impacted. We've been focused on reaching out to natural specialty gourmet clients that have an aligned mission and values as us, and who's customers are 'conscious foodies.'
So we haven't bothered to reach out to traditional grocers and retailers, because we feel it would be an uphill battle to try to 'sell' to them. But in the Fil/Am community we've gotten a lot of positive feedback and support, as many Fil/Ams know of the vast social and environmental challenges of their country of heritage.
We exist to add value to farmers in the supply chain, by building a bridge to the US natural and specialty food industry and helping with branding, marketing, and connecting them to aligned clients. Rather than trying to do everything in the supply chain, we are collaborating with other like-minded social good entrepreneurs and organizations in the value chain.
This might be a sticky question - what do you think about superfoods and possible unintended impacts on local economies - eg, the "shadow" side of quinoa. Could that happen with heirloom rice?
JG: This is a great question. One of the things that I am sensitive to is sourcing from developing countries and feeding the appetite of first world countries for the next gourmet item and/or superfood. You see the exploitation of communities where farmers and the community can no longer afford to enjoy the food of their heritage, the best Philippine mangoes or tuna that are directly exported to wealthier Asian countries, or instant coffee consumed by the masses in Colombia while their Colombian coffee is exported across the globe.
With our organic colored rice, the farmers get to enjoy the rice and sell their surplus, that's built into the supply/value chain process. We would never export white rice, especially with challenges of rice sufficiency in the Philippines. The Philippines has started importing certain varieties such as the heirloom rice from the Rice Terraces, and colored rice which was partly grown to attract an international market. The black, red and brown rice had been developed for the export market, because locally Filipinos like most Asians prefer white rice. This is a way for Filipino farmers to capture more profit in an global marketplace. We educate our clients on limitations of supply and issues that may arise, so that expectations are managed as we grow, and the local community is always factored in our decisions. Aside from buying at an above fair trade price, we give back 5% of our profits towards a technical training program to convert more farmers to organic farming and methods, thereby sustainable practices like non-GMO, multi-cropping, etc.
What do you see as key "good food movement" issues and opportunities for Filipino/Americans and AAPIs?
JG: I guess the same thing that all Americans would and should value, supporting local when possible, respecting where food comes from, and advocating for a more just world with respect to People and the Planet.
Anything else you'd like to share?
Check us out on our website and Facebook page!
More on Rice: